Thai seconds the second pitch of Boston - Kracken on the Cheap Wine Wall at Enchanted Rock.
I was itching to get back out on the rock. Even though I had already been climbing outside three times this year before this trip, I was still antsy to get some lead climbing in on long run-out slab. Enchanted Rock is well known for its quality bouldering, stellar crack climbs and long slab climbs on the backside of the dome. E-Rock as climbers often call it is by far my favorite place to climb in Texas. Located just west of Austin in the Texas Hill Country, this giant mound of granite sort of pops out of nowhere and begs to be climbed.
As the weekend got closer I became inspired to register for another half-marathon, so getting a long run in that weekend was going to be important. I had worked in long runs on climbing trips before, last one I had done was about 10 miles, requiring me to wake up at 6 a.m. so that I could run, eat breakfast and still meet the group in time to head out to the climbing area. I really didn’t like waking up that early on the camping trip and I figured this time was going to be even harder since the weather was calling for temperatures in the low thirties. But on the way there, I got a bright idea – why not run that night. There was going to be a clear sky, which meant a night run would be really enjoyable.
So, upon arriving I quickly threw up my tent, grabbed my bag got into my tent, threw on my running cloths and grabbed my headlamp and iPhone. I thought about running the trails, but figured running along the road outside the park might be safer. As I began my run, I realized it was going to be a tougher run than I thought. There were hills – lots of them. I didn’t remember it being quite as bad driving in.
But, not to long into the run I stopped noticing the hills and I even decided to turn off my headphones. I thought to myself, why in the world am I listening to music when I’m out in nature under a gorgeous star lit sky? After turning off the music I could hear the sounds of animals moving in the woods on both sides of me, I could hear the crickets chirping, the bullfrogs groaning and the sound of my feet against the pavement.
My goal was to run about nine miles with a pace of at least 8:30, so I was still paying pretty close attention to my RunKeeper app, but around mile four the data all went to zeros except for the distance. I briefly stopped, hoping the data would return so I could force myself to run a good pace, but nothing was returning. This was a blessing though – I shoved the iPhone into my pocket and just kept running, enjoying it for all that it was.
I found myself staring up into the night sky for most of the run after that. I actually had a sore neck the next morning from it. The sky was also so bright I ran almost the entire run with my headlamp turned off. The only time I turned it on was to alert oncoming cars of my presence. Before I hit the 4.5 mile mark I was probably passed by a total of five or six cars, but on the return trip, I was all alone; just me, the road, nature and the sound of my breathing. It was euphoric! A couple times I even teared up just because I was so in love with the moment God was allowing me to enjoy; it was beautiful.
Once I arrived back into the campground all the data in my RunKeeper had returned. I didn’t run the 8:30 minute mile I had hoped, but I knew I hadn’t. I didn’t care either I had just experienced the most enjoyable run yet. I’m sure there will be more, but this one has been the best thus far.
The Climbs
Heather all ready to go bouldering. She earned the nick name Smurfette that morning.
The next morning I was really thankful I had decided to run that evening. As I began waking up I could just feel the cold air outside and was glad I could just lay there in my sleeping bag and wait until I heard other people outside the tent getting ready to head out to the climbs.
After waking up it took everybody a couple hours to get their stuff together, eat, warm up by the fire and be ready to go. Everybody took their time, which often irritates my because I am always so anxious to get as much climbing in as possible, but it wasn’t bothering me at all that day. Myself and my climbing partner for the day along with a group that was bouldering were there first to leave camp. Thai and I arrived at Turkey Peak and had the climbing all to ourselves.
The first climb of the day as Butterball, a 5.8 sport climb on the far end of a granite slope. The first moves getting onto the climb are the scariest, because if you fall you are likely to slide down the granite slope if your belayer isn’t doing a really good job. I took the lead on the climb and was about half way up the route when the rest of the group showed up. By the time I had finished Stan had scrambled up an easy 5.4 ramp to set up the other two climbs on top-rope. After lowering off Thai went up the route next and then we enjoyed watching others climb on top-rope for a while. We waited until about half of the group had a chance to climb before we jumped on the routes. After finishing Turkey Hooks (5.8) and Butter Fingers (5.9) we decided to head to the Backside Cheap Wine Wall for some multi-pitch slab climbing.
Once at the bottom of the climb Thai and I inspected a couple of different lines. I was excited to climb 5.7 Boston, but the run out to the first piece of protection was pretty far so I thought about doing another climb just to the right that had a bolt half way up the slab before an overhanging lip you have to surmount to obtain the upper portion of the slab. Seeing as how the upper portion of the second pitch contained a long run out I might as well stick to the route I had planned on climbing.
Thai arrives at at the belay station for the second pitch of Boston.
After moving past my first piece of protection I put in a couple piece of gear in a notch on an overhang and pulled up onto the upper slab. Once here I found myself in an interesting situation. I knew the line I was supposed to be climbing was protected with a couple of bolts, but I couldn’t find the line at all, so rather than wander off into the unknown I stepped right and joined up with Kracken, another 5.7 climb that joins the same belay as Boston. From this point on up to the belay station was fairly easy. I only placed one supplemental piece of protection between bolts to reduce the run out.
Once I had my anchor set up I belayed Thai up to the belay station known as Beer Can Alley. Appropriately named too, as there was an empty Lone Star beer can lying next to a boulder. This seems to be the typical beer choice of Austin climbers that frequent Enchanted Rock. The second pitch of the climb followed a large flake up and right to meet up with easy 5.6 slab that runs to the top anchors. Once here I thought I would easily romp up to the top, but I lost my nerve. Just one year ago I was one climb over and made the long run out romp to the top, but this time I wasn’t feeling it. At first I ignored that voice in my head and just told myself I need to get it done. I began slowly making my way up the slab but stopped about 10-15 feet from the top of the flake.
Me at the first pitch belay station. This was the day before I trimmed the beard.
It was then that caution kicked in and I began down climbing back to the top of the flake and then back down to the belay station. At this point we decided to just return to the base of the climb and move on to the next climb. However, we had one small problem. Thai had forgot to bring the second rope up with him. So not knowing if our rope was going to reach the ground we began making our decent, Thai going first. Soon after leaving the perch I hear Thai yell, “off rappel”. Our rope just barely reached the base of the climb; thankfully Thai’s rope was a 70-meter rather than the typical 60-meter rop most climbers carry.
After this we decided to move on to a swooshing crack climb called Sweat (5.7). Upon reaching the climb we found another group of climbers already on the route, so we decided to wait it out and fuel up on some food. After eating and chatting with the other climbers, they suggested we top out on the backside of the dome and walk off the front instead of walking the long way around. Thai and I both thought this was a good idea, so we packed up our bags, leaving out only the necessary gear to climb.
After we were geared up and ready to go I started making the first moves on the climb, reached up to place my first piece of gear and slipped back to the base of the climb. It was going to be impossible for me to climb this crack in a full pack, so we opted to move one climb over to an easier climb to finish out the day. The other group of climbers we had talked to was finishing up on the climb, so we had to wait a few more minutes.
We didn’t have to wait long though and quickly found ourselves at the top of the climb. We had to make one more short pitch to level ground before we could walk off the backside. It was easy going though and we both made it to the top well before the sun had set. As we walked off the top of the dome, we saw a group of people with sleeping bags that appeared to be making camp for the night. I guess they didn’t know that camping was not allowed on top of the dome, but they could have just ignored it as well. Either way, they were going to be in for a cold windy night.
So, all together it was a great day of climbing. After everybody made it back to camp we all pilled into cars and headed into town to grab some dinner. Now, I am not really one to like going into town to eat; to me it takes a way from the whole experience. I would much prefer to stay in camp and eat dinner, but when the entire group heads to town I go as well so I’m not the only one in camp, because the flip side of this is that part of the climbing experience is bonding with fellow climbers, and that is something I don’t want to miss out on.
Fellow Texas Mountaineer Members on the Devils Slide area.
The second day of climbing was really pretty chill. I set up a top rope on Texas Tree Treesent a 5.8 crack climb that completely shut me down a year ago. I struggled through it a bit this time too, but finished it on lead. After that I hung out with Ryan and Jackie and helped them practice their trad climbing and watched them build an anchor to double check the set-up. The second day of climbing is usually always relaxing and laid back, but they can get a bit epic as well, this trip was for the most part epic free. I don’t consider backing down off a route epic. Now, had I made my way half way up and chickened out having to be rescued… that would be epic.
Jackie and Ryan toped out on an easy unnamed crack in the Kingdom of Zilch area.
Dan prepares to rappel back down the climb he just lead on the anchor that Jackie and Ryan build. Dan, your a brave man!
Climbing, Running, Trip Reports by OrganicClimber
bouldering, Climbing, e-rock, Enchanted Rock, rock climbing, Running, slab, sport climbing, trad
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